Images of winter in Europe

Happy new year! Over Christmas and new year I took a hiatus from this blog while I ventured out of Paris, and did some travel in several other European destinations.

Although I did not encounter snow, it was lovely to experience a wintry Christmas, with its decorations and festive cheer that are uniquely European.

So before I resume chronicling my adventures in Paris, I thought I’d post a small collection of some of the images I captured.

London, England

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Copenhagen, Denmark

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Berlin, Germany

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Bruges, Belgium

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Ghent, Belgium

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Brussels, Belgium

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Although I had previously visited all of these locations when I lived in Europe from 2001-2003, I really enjoyed rediscovering them with new eyes – and a new camera!

London from the south side

When in London, I can highly recommend taking a walk along South Bank, which skirts along the Thames.

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The area I explored stretched from Tower Bridge, down to the London Eye and Westminster. I’d advise allowing at least half a day, but if you want to stop and explore the many attractions and sights along the way, you would need a day or two to really do it justice.

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It’s quite a lively area, and is enjoyable just to walk and take in the views and absorb the ambience. But if you’d like to explore the sights, the major attractions I passed by (or near enough to detour to) include the following:

  • Tower Bridge
  • The Shard
  • Borough Markets
  • Southwark Cathedral
  • London Dungeon
  • Millennium Bridge (direct views of St Paul’s Cathedral from the Bridge)
  • Tate Modern Gallery
  • Shakespare’s Globe Theatre
  • Waterloo Bridge (great views of the London Eye and Houses of Parliament on the other side of the river)
  • London Eye
  • London Aquarium

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You will also come across some lively squares; modern architecture in the business district; cafes and riverside pubs tempting you to pause for a break; and even some interesting artwork under a bridge!

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If you wish to cross one of the several bridges you will encounter to the other side of the Thames, you can also add to your list:

  • The Tower of London
  • St Paul’s Cathedral
  • Monument
  • Victoria Embankment Gardens
  • Westminster and Houses of Parliament

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The above lists are not exhaustive, there is a website with information about events and attractions in the South Bank region if you wish to delve further. It also lists some interesting themed walks you can do in this area.

So put on your walking shoes, grab your camera, and get out there and enjoy!

London – for free!

No, this title is not a misnomer! There are actually loads of great free things to do in London.

So if you’re planning a trip, it’s good to know that you can visit many of the major museums and galleries for free. This includes the following:

  • British Library
  • British Museum
  • Imperial War Museum
  • Museum of London
  • National Gallery
  • National Portrait Gallery
  • Natural History Museum
  • Science Museum
  • Tate Britain
  • Tate Modern
  • Victoria and Albert Museum

There are also numerous smaller galleries and museums that have free entry. A great resource to check out is the (also free!) download of Lonely Planet’s Recession-Busting Britain: Best Free Experiences, available from the apple iBookstore, amazon, or kobo.

And this is of course in addition to the many green spaces and parks; beautiful monuments and squares you can visit without charge; and the many interesting districts you can explore. So there is absolutely no reason that visiting the sights of London has to break the budget 🙂

In this article I will describe a few of the destinations I visited on my recent trip. But I am not even halfway through the above list – it’s a work in progress!

British Library

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I rate the Treasures Collection at the British Library (Sir John Ritblat Gallery) very highly. It’s open until 6pm daily, and until 8pm on Tuesdays (Tube: Kings Cross St Pancras). Note that you cannot borrow from the library unless you are a member.

Allow at least two hours to view the collection of over 200 objects, and read the blurb about each. Don’t be deceived by the small space – there are lots of interesting relics here to discover.

Some of the gems contained in this space include: (my love of classical music may be evident in my list…..I have tried to cover a broad spectrum here to appeal to all interests!)

  • The earliest draft of Handel’s Messiah
  • Mozart’s marriage contract
  • Beethoven’s tuning fork (which was subsequently handed to other famous composers and musicians, including Gustav Holst and Ralph Vaughn Williams)
  • Mendelssohn’s Wedding March, written by his own hand
  • Several pieces of Beatles’ memorabilia, including lyrics to Help written by John Lennon; and Yesterday by Paul McCartney
  • A notebook and sketches by Leonardo Da Vinci
  • Several printed texts of works by Shakespeare and his contemporaries
  • A notebook owned by Jane Austen c1792, containing short stories she compiled during her teen years
  • A letter by Charles Darwin to Cuthbert Collingwood from 1861, defending his theory on Natural Selection
  • A letter from Napoleon Bonaparte to his brother Joseph in July 1798 that was intercepted by the British Navy, with hand written notations on there by Lord Nelson
  • A printed text of Aesop’s Fables dating from 1484
  • Numerous sacred texts from different religions and philosophies
  • And…..two copies (out of the four remaining) Magna Carta documents from 1215, also known as The Great Charter of the Liberties of England.

I could go on! Check it out 🙂

British Museum

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Upon entry to the country’s largest museum, the vast canopy of the Great Court (renovated in 2000) with its light and bright glass and steel roof with capture your attention immediately.

But even equipped with a map (£1), it is still a little challenging to navigate the extensive number rooms and exhibitions contained here, with their slightly erratic order (in my humble opinion!). So it can be worth checking out the detailed and informative website prior to your visit, to devise a plan of action prior to your arrival!

You can hire an audioguide if you wish (£5), or join one of the free daily Gallery talks (1.15pm Tue – Sat). There are also 90 minute highlights tours if you prefer to join a group (£12). The museum is open until 5.30pm daily, and til 8.30pm on Fridays (Tube: Tottenham Court Road; Holburn).

But I personally found the written information beside the displays to be adequate for my needs, and preferred to walk through at my own pace. You can take photos here in most of the galleries, and can even sketch (with pencil) in the galleries, if you feel so inspired!

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As I tended to enjoy the ancient relics the most, highlights for me included:

  • The Rosetta Stone – the discovery of this stone cracked the code for deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphics
  • The impressive collection of Egyptian relics, sculptures, and tombs
  • The (controversial) collection of sculptures and friezes from the Parthenon in Athens
  • The most famous chess set in the world: The Lewis Chessman
  • The beautiful Assyrian sculptures and friezes
  • The Enlightenment Room (Ground floor) contains a collection of objects dedicated to the “age of reason and learning” that occurred across Europe and America from approximately 1680 to 1820. It is housed in the beautiful King’s Library, the former home of the library of King George III.

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There is also an extensive collection of objects from Europe; Asia; Africa; and South America; so plenty to satisfy varied tastes and interests of all things historic.

When you’re wanting a break, there are several options for a bite to eat or a drink, including the affordable cafes on the ground level, offering cakes, sandwiches, fruit and snacks; and the central restaurant where you can enjoy a cream tea (for a price!) or dine on something more substantial. You could also BYO sandwich (as I did) and sit in nearby Russell Square for some greenery and fresh air, either before or after your visit, and watch the locals enjoying some R&R. Very pleasant!

Museum of London

I thoroughly enjoyed this very interesting and high quality museum, and would rate it as my favourite destination from this list. It’s open from 10am – 6pm daily (Tube: St Paul’s; Barbican).

It contains a fascinating collection that chronicles the history of the great city of London  from its earliest beginnings, through its Roman past of Londinium, right up to the present day. Especially if you have lived in or spent time in London, it provides a truly interesting insight into how the city has developed into the metropolis it is today.

One of the facets of the museum I really liked is the way the displays are presented. Rather than being sprawling and impersonal, the galleries felt intimate, with a design and layout that was engaging and continued to stimulate my interest to explore further. Several sections integrated and contrasted older pieces with current day objects, trends, and habits – thus maintaining interest and relevance, particularly for younger visitors.

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I also particularly enjoyed its chronicles on the Great Fire of London; a Georgian “pleasure garden” (quite surreal to walk through); and a recreated Victorian street, with many old-fashioned shops containing lots of interesting relics and curiosities.

I spent around four hours here, which I would recommend as a minimum. I would certainly visit it again.

National Gallery

Although this gallery contains a renowned collection of 2,300+ works of art, perhaps unfairly, I couldn’t help but compare it to the artwork contained in the Louvre in Paris – and felt it came up short. But art is a personal taste, and what appeals to me will be different from another, and I still enjoyed some of the works on display here.

The gallery offers a good diversity of artwork, dating from the 13th to early 20th century. Although unfortunately, the piece I most wanted to see, Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, was on loan to another gallery!

The gallery is open from 10am-6pm daily, and until 9pm on Fridays (Tube: Leicester Square; Charing Cross), and does have a good informative website.

You also can’t go past the grandeur of the building itself, and its prime position looking out onto Trafalgar Square.

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The National Portrait Gallery is just around the corner, so if you have more time than I did on the day I visited, you could combine these two galleries into the one day.

So although I really only scratched the surface of the long list of free attractions, I endeavour to explore further on my future trips to London, safe in the knowledge there are lots of high quality freebies on offer!

London – a candid view

I have just spent two weeks in London with my brother and sister-in-law. It’s been around five months since my last visit, and I enjoyed returning to this great city to experience some of its ambience during summer.

Although the weather was still a little variable (!), I thought I’d dedicate a post to some candid shots I obtained whilst out and about.

So the the following collection pays homage to local London life, through the eyes of a visitor, on a few sunny summertime days……

“Come with me, ladies and gentlemen who are in any wise weary of London: come with me: and those that tire at all of the world we know: for we have new worlds here.”

Lord Dunsany, ‘The Book of Wonder’

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“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”

Samuel Johnson

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The food even rates a mention!

One thing that has struck me this time around in London is that the food has improved! Perhaps it is also because I have become more invested in it myself, and am thus more aware of what is on offer. I aim to buy organic options where feasible; enjoy buying produce from farmer’s markets; and try to be conscious of seasonal offerings as well; and it seems London has the capacity to provide on all fronts!

Although my time here was short and I didn’t sample extensively, I feel I did come across a few gems that are worthwhile sharing.

Market fare: A food-related highlight of this visit for me were the two trips I made to Brick Lane market. Along with its clothing, prints, and general bric-a-brac, there is a wonderful array of international food offerings at very reasonable prices. There are also plenty of delectable desserts available as well. My brother, who is quite an aficionado when it comes to Middle-Eastern cuisine, has proclaimed that the spinach and feta gozleme we both sampled from Middle East Fusion at these markets is the best he has found. It truly was delicious, served with hummus and salad, along with the best felafel I have ever had. £5 well invested! If Middle Eastern is not to your liking, there are plenty of Indian; Ethiopian; Japanese; Mexican; and other cuisines on offer here, so you won’t go home hungry!

Borough Markets, London

Borough Markets, London

Gourmet market: Another worthwhile trip for foodies is to check out the Borough market in Southbank, just alongside the Southwark Cathedral (which is also worth a look). Plenty of good quality, gourmet produce on offer here, and a number of stalls featuring ready-made food to keep you satisfied while you browse.

Cafe/Coffee: Not being a coffee drinker, I am borrowing this recommendation from my sister-in-law, who continues to be disappointed with the quality of coffee in London. She views coffee as an art form, and appreciates the skill in making and pouring a good cup. Therefore, if you’re in the vicinity of Brick Lane or Soho Square, she swears by the soy cappuccinos at Nude Espresso, where they roast and blend their own coffee. So Antipodeans rejoice – good coffee in London is possible to find! And don’t despair if you can’t make it in to one of their two locations, you can buy your coffee online from their website. Nude also offers a menu focusing on local and seasonal produce, so is a great spot for breakfast or lunch. The ricotta pancakes I had with roasted grape and pomegranate molasses and creme fraiche were deelish!

Sandwiches: Even the proliferation of gourmet sandwich bars has struck me, with the lunchtime crowds swarming to my old favourite Pret-A-Manger. With its assortment of gourmet sandwiches; soups; organic coffee; and numerous natural and healthy snack options, there is plenty of well-priced, healthy fare on offer to go.

Vegetarian: Mildred’s in Soho has a yummy menu of mains and desserts that will keep the vegetarian or vegan coming back for more.

Duo of scones & hot chocolate @ Fortnum & Mason, London

Duo of scones & hot chocolate @ Fortnum & Mason, London

Cream tea: No visit to England is complete without experiencing a cream tea. As a scone lover, I was keen to partake in the experience – without the hefty price tag that usually accompanies the privilege! Enter Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly. There are five eating venues to choose from in this old-fashioned, up-market department store. We opted for The Parlour on the first floor for our dining experience. This is the pick for amazing ice-cream sundaes, milkshakes, Viennese cakes, tea blends, and scones! We were not disappointed. And at just £6.95 for a duo of scones with jam and clotted cream, it is justifiable on any budget. Yum!

Bar/Eatery: A final mention goes to the venue I visited on my last night in London: SushiSamba in the Heron Tower, near Liverpool St station. A bizarre-sounding fusion of Japanese, Brazilian, and Peruvian food and drinks, we took the swift glass elevator up to the 38th floor of the building to be greeted with vast city views, a slick bar, and a modern dining experience. We couldn’t secure a table (even on a Monday night it is imperative to book), but we managed to get a casual seat in the bar area. All four of us could not fault the food options we selected, washed down with a fruity cocktail for £9.50 – considering the location and the prime views, very reasonable indeed. As the sun set, we were treated to great views over St Paul’s, the Gherkin, and the Thames. Put it on your list!

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And so as I depart, I look forward to sampling more of what London has to offer when I return…….

A selection of other noteworthy sights

It is possible to spend a month in this city and only just scratch the surface – as I found out last time I was here. This time around my visit time is much shorter, but I know I will return again in the coming months to explore more of what London has to offer. And hopefully by then, the weather will be more conducive to doing so!

Two worthwhile sights I have visited in the last few days include the Tower of London and the Monument. Although I saw both sights on my previous visit, they have certainly been worth another look.

The Lonely Planet London states:

“if you pay only one admission fee while you’re in London,

make it the Tower”.

An integral part of London’s history over the past 1000 years, the Tower of London has been a royal castle; an observatory; a mint; and even a zoo. But it is most famous for being a prison and the site of royal executions, including the second and fifth wives of Henry VIII.

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A highlight of the visit is partaking in a tour with one of the Yeoman Warders (“Beefeaters”; included in the admission price). Entertaining and informative, it is a good condensed introduction to the vast history of the Tower. The other must-see is, of course, the Crown Jewels. There are over 23,000 gems on display on an assortment of crowns, sceptres and swords. The most impressive would be the 530-carat Cullinan diamond, until 1985 the largest diamond ever discovered. Very sparkly!

Other famous residents in the Tower include the population of ravens. It is said if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the kingdom will collapse!

There is much else to see at this attraction, including the great views of Tower Bridge from a number of vantage points. Allow at least half a day to do it justice.

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Monument, designed by Sir Christopher Wren and Dr Robert Hooke, is a memorial to the Great Fire of London (1666). It stands at 60.6m tall – the exact distance it is located from Pudding Lane where the fire reportedly started. Not for those who easily experience vertigo, 311 steps take you up the spiral staircase to the 360-degree viewing platform. A tight squeeze, but fabulous views, and certainly one of the best value sights in the city at only £3. But wear a good jacket – it’s breezy up there!

And no visit to London is complete without a wander along the Thames and crossing one or two of its numerous bridges. If you can chance a good sunset, you’ll be rewarded with great photo opportunities of some of the iconic sights that line the River.

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There are many more districts, sights, and attractions to see in this great city that I haven’t managed on this trip. The list remains long to carry over into my next visit – which of course adds to the incentive to come back!

An unexpected journey

It’s always a pleasure to take in the sights when you have no expectations or preconceived ideas about an area. I set out with the intention to visit St Paul’s Cathedral, but encountered some interesting distractions along the way.

Setting out from Brick Lane, I detoured via the imposing structure of “the Gherkin” (30 St Mary Axe). 180m tall and an icon of London’s skyline, it was built on the site of the former Baltic Exchange that was severely damaged by a bomb in 1992.

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From here I randomly made my way onto Leadenhall St. Lined with stately buildings, the occasional old church, the historic annexe of the market, and lots of nice shops, it was an enjoyable walk down to Bank. Here I spent quite some time snapping photos of the historic buildings that circle the square – quintessential London!

Venturing further down Poultry and Cheapside, I continued to enjoy the buildings until I reached St Paul’s Cathedral churchyard. I highly recommend doing a circuit around the Cathedral before going inside, to truly appreciate the dimensions of the structure and to take in the details on the exterior. I also encountered some interesting mirrored sculptures in the general vicinity that, when correctly positioned, reflect the Cathedral.

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  • Generally regarded as Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece, the current Cathedral dates from the 17th century, and was part of the major rebuilding that took place after the Great Fire of London in 1666.
  • It took 35 years to be completed, and has since survived two bombings during the Blitz in World War II.
  • The recognisable dome rises to 110m, and was inspired by St Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

There was a choir practising their hymns as I explored the Cathedral floor with the aid of the audio guide. The acoustics showcased one particular voice in the choir: as she started her solo, the tone and range of her voice swelled to fill the church, the sound seemed to bounce and reverberate from every surface.

The interior space was beautiful to explore, a highlight being the mosaics on the ceiling that are comprised of over 6 million pieces of coloured glass. Unfortunately the exterior viewing platforms were closed, but I was able to access the interior Whispering Gallery, set 30m above the cathedral floor at the base of the dome. Worth the 259 step climb!

Beneath the Cathedral floor lies the crypt, the resting place of many notable Brits, including:

  • Lord Nelson (killed in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805);
  • the Duke of Wellington (who led the defeat of Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo, and has left behind a legacy of namesakes such as the trusty Wellington boots and the national dish of beef wellington);
  • Wren himself.

St Paul’s is a serene and peaceful space, and worthy of a visit whilst in London.

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From the Cathedral, it’s a short walk down to the Thames and the Millennium Bridge. As the sky darkened, I took in the vista of the Tate Modern across the bridge, Shakespeare’s Globe theatre, the Shard, and Tower Bridge in the distance.

A great day of exploration with some unexpected surprises thrown in.

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Rediscovering the sights

It is an interesting exercise to rediscover a city you spent time in over 10 years ago. I have taken a more relaxed approach to hitting the tourist trail this time around, since I know London is a short jaunt back across the Channel once I am in France.

Icy London streets

Icy London streets

The other contributing factor has been the weather – light snow, icy wind and temperatures hovering just above zero are not overly inspiring to be pounding the pavement from 9 til 5! I have upgraded my winter gear with a new down jacket, glove liners and thermals, but am still struggling to spend too much time outdoors with camera in hand. I obviously managed last time around, so there is much to be said for acclimatisation!

The weekend was spent exploring the two local markets with my brother and sister-in-law: Spitalfields, and Brick Lane – so named for its brick and tile manufacturers that were located here in the 15th century – with its interesting street art and tasty, cheap multicultural cuisine. Today the area is home to the city’s Bangledeshi-Sylheti community. Three of us managed dinner for £6, keeping the budget well and truly in tact! The Brick Lane area is also infamous for its links with Jack the Ripper, with regular walking tours taking in some of the locations linked with the era.

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Yesterday I hit the tourist trail in earnest, and caught the tube to Westminster. Nothing says London like walking out of the station and being greeted with Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey! The clock tower commonly referred to as “Big Ben” is now officially called the Elizabeth Tower, after being renamed to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II in September 2012. Not quite the same though….!

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I then joined the queue to visit the interior of the Abbey, and although I had done so last visit, I’m really glad I returned – it was like seeing it with fresh eyes and a new appreciation. Largely in Gothic style and both the coronation and burial site for many British monarchs, famous writers, poets, musicians and other notable Brits are also buried here. There are over 450 tombs and monuments housed in the Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London

Westminster Abbey, London

Definitely a must-see on the London list, and up there with Europe’s best cathedrals and churches.

Today I had lunch at the popular vegetarian spot Mildred’s in Soho with a friend from Melbourne. I then admired the stately buildings lining Regent St as I meandered down to Piccadilly Circus. The camera received a good workout as I followed the monuments down Waterloo Place to The Mall, Horse Guards Building, through the green expanse of St James’ Park, and on to Buckingham Palace.

It was nightfall as I reached Trafalgar Square, very pretty with the fountains lit up at night, with the beautiful National Gallery as a backdrop. A couple of the statues in the fountain even had icy stalactites on them, so it’s not just me imagining the cold! A fitting end to an enjoyable afternoon.

Time to charge the camera battery, get the next memory card ready, and defrost the hands and feet ready for tomorrow’s onslaught!

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London – reunited after 10 years

It was almost 10 years ago to the day that I departed the UK after my 2 year stint living and working here and in Europe. I never lived in London, but paid homage to the capital on numerous occasions, so became quite familiar with the sites and attractions on offer. Today also represents the first time I have returned to the same country twice! It’s time to be back…..

Heathrow was surprisingly civilised, I sailed through immigration and customs and was in a cab less than 45 minutes after landing. Not bad for the world’s third busiest airport that sees over 190,000 passengers arriving and departing each day, serviced by 86 airlines who touch down in over 190 destinations/90 countries worldwide. A promising start!

I arrived to a not-so-spring-like 2 degrees (celsius), it began to lightly snow during the taxi ride into the city – quite charming from inside the warmth of the cab, but a harsh reality as soon as one set foot outside! My memories and orientation were rekindled as we made our way past one iconic site after another during the journey to the East side.

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We passed the beautiful buildings that house the Natural History Museum, Victoria & Albert Museum, and the National Portrait Gallery, before reaching the unmistakable sights of Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, the London Eye, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

The Tate Modern was visible across the Thames, and the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral could be made out in the distance along with the Shard – a new addition to the skyline since my last visit.

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We turned up towards Whitechapel Rd after passing the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, with the journey finishing near Brick Lane at the apartment of my brother and sister-in-law who have been resident here since last year. What a fabulous reintroduction to this great city!

London, it’s good to be reunited 🙂