Civilised Cambridge

Whilst on my recent trip to the UK, I spent a couple of days in Cambridge watching my sister-in-law perform in the annual Cambridge Shakespeare Festival.

Cambridge is a beautiful town, and is easily accessible from either London Liverpool St or Waterloo stations, with the journey only taking around an hour and one-way fares as cheap as £6. So a day trip is possible, but in order to gain a true appreciation of the the sights, I’d recommend at least an overnight stay.

Cambridge is of course renowned for its colleges, with an estimated student population of around 30,000. This is one of the reasons you will see so many bikes in and around town, with at least 50% of residents using a bike at least once a week.

Bikes, Cambridge, England

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During much of the year, the colleges are open for visitors to explore, with entry fees ranging from £2.50 to about £5. But unfortunately for me, several of the major ones were closed during my visit. Nevertheless, it is still possible to enjoy the architecture and general surrounds from street level.

Cambridge Colleges, England

King’s College, Cambridge, England

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Cambridge has been home to many famous past students, and is rich is interesting history:

• Trinity College is one of the largest and most sought-after colleges. It was established in 1546 by Henry VIII, whose statue looks down on to the street below from the top of the great gateway. But rather than his figure holding the royal sceptre in his right hand, these days he holds a chair leg – the result of a student prank!
• Stephen Hawking was a fellow at Gonville and Caius college until 2009, while Francis Crick, who co-dicovered DNA, was a former student here.
• Charles Darwin studied at the 500 year old Christ’s College.
• Sir Christopher Wren left his mark on several of Cambridge’s colleges, designing the chapel in Emmanuel college, and the Wren Library in Trinity college, home to 55,000 books and over 2,500 manuscripts.
• St John’s college spans both sides of the river, connected by the Bridge of Sighs, which does not resemble its namesake in Venice aside from the fact both are covered bridges.
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  Mathematical Bridge, Cambridge, England

  The Mathematical Bridge is subject to the popular tale that it was designed by Sir Issac Newton, and constructed without nuts and bolts. One night, students disassembled it, only to find they were unable to put it back together! Sadly, this urban myth is untrue, especially since Sir Isaac died 22 years before the bridge was built!

• Punts were originally built as cargo boats or platforms for fowling and angling, but in modern times their use is almost exclusively confined to pleasure trips. Punting was introduced in Cambridge around 1902-1904, and the River Cam is now the busiest river for punting in England. You can take a 40 minute trip for around £12, or hire a punt from Trinity College to try it for yourself – if you’re game!

Punts along the River Cam, Cambridge, England

Punting, Cambridge, England

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Cambridge is a lovely town to just wander and explore, and appreciate the historic buildings and beautiful architecture.

But there are a few must-sees/do’s whilst here.

Walk along The Backs

“The Backs” is the area along the River Cam that stretches from Magdalene St to Silver St, to the east of Queen’s Rd. As its name suggests, it passes the backs of a number of the famous colleges – so a great way to check them out for free! Stroll along the river, cross the small footbridges, or sit in the shade along the way and just soak up the ambience.

“The Backs”, Cambridge, England

“The Backs”, Cambridge, England

“The Backs”, Cambridge, England

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Spend a few lazy hours at the Botanic Gardens

This beautiful space is a lovely area to wander for a couple of hours. There are also numerous grassy spots to sit and picnic, or lie back and read a book.

Botanic Gardens, Cambridge, England

Botanic Gardens, Cambridge, England

Botanic Gardens, Cambridge, England

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Enjoy a cream tea

The cream tea is a quintessential English experience, and Cambridge has many options to choose from to get your scone fix! I selected a lovely tearoom called Harriet’s Cafe TeaRooms, situated at 16-17 Green St, where they call you “Madam” or “Sir”, and uphold good old-fashioned service.

Get a dose of history at the Fitzwilliam Museum

The Fitzwilliam Museum is housed in a lovely historic building about 500m out of the city centre. Its collection includes ancient artefacts; European and Oriental sculpture and decorative arts; artwork from the 13th century to the present day; and manuscripts and printed books. It’s open daily, aside from Mondays, and admission to the collections is free.

Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

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So Cambridge has much to offer its visitors, and is a lovely spot to spend a couple of days whilst in the UK.

Sacré-Cœur and surrounds

On a sunny day, the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur (Basilica of the Sacred Heart) is a spectacular blaze of white against the backdrop of a blue sky. It is located at the summit of butte Montmartre, the highest point in Paris, and can be seen from numerous vantage points across the city.

I can see its domes from a nearby street. So considering it’s a short walk from my apartment (albeit up a few steep roads and 5 staircases!), it has beckoned me to revisit on a number of occasions when there have been sunny skies.

It’s a lovely spot to sit on the sloping grass out the front, where people gather to picnic; read; play a tune on a guitar; or simply relax.

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There is frequently some sort of entertainment on the main staircase directly below the Basilica, musicians or puppeteers station themselves here to entertain those perched on the steps.

But the man who draws the crowds is Iya Traore – a “professional soccer juggler” – now there’s a profession I wasn’t aware existed!

Entertainment, Sacre-Coeur

According to articles on the net, he played soccer at a professional level in Europe, and now does street performances of free-style tricks with a soccer ball. There are numerous You Tube clips dedicated to his performances, such as this one. Be sure to catch him in action!

Once you’ve soaked up some of the ambience outside, a visit to the Basilica itself is a must. Entry is free, and you are not allowed to take photos inside.

The inspiration for the Basilica’s design apparently stemmed from a speech by a Bishop in 1870, who proclaimed France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian war was divine retribution after “a century of moral decline” since the French Revolution.

The Basilica was to mark the foundation of the new post-war French state; as well as being a public monument to the memory of the tens of thousands of French citizens who lost their lives in the war and its aftermath, the Commune of 1871. However, it was not completed until 1914, and did not officially open for worship until 1919 after the end of WWI.

The site of the Basilica upon butte Montmartre is traditionally associated with the beheading of the city’s patron, Saint Denis, in the 3rd century.

So a rather colourful history precedes it, but once inside, you are enveloped by the peace and beauty of its interior – in contrast to the buzz of activity just outside its walls. The beautiful mosaic of “Christ in Majesty” in the apse is one of the largest in the world, and it is worth lingering here to take in the detail of the design.

But the highlight of a visit is climbing to the dome for sweeping views across Paris (6€; for an extra 2€ you can also visit the crypt). Yes, there are good views from atop the staircase out the front of the Basilica, but the dome far surpasses these and is worth the small entry fee, and the climb!

Views from atop Sacre-Coeur

Views from atop Sacre-Coeur

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Views of the Eiffel Tower; Montparnasse Tower; Notre-Dame; and a number of other landmarks are visible from the top – so a clear day is best. Factor into the timing of your visit the setting sun in the direction of the Eiffel Tower, as there can be a bit of late-afternoon haze (as I discovered) – an important consideration for your photos!

And there is always plenty of action in the area surrounding the Basilica, with numerous shops, cafes, and artists creating depictions of their tourist clientele in Place du Tertre (see my previous post on Montmartre here; and do ensure you are wary of your belongings around the Basilica and stairs).

Local artist, Place du Tertre

Restaurant, Place du Tertre

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It’s worth enjoying the evening ambience here as well. I was treated to a stunning sunset one night, with the silhouette of the Basilica framed by the changing colour of a few clouds dotted in the sky. And be sure to walk along the small side road (to the left as you face the Basilica) for a view of the Eiffel Tower peeking through the trees, and lit up in the distance.

Sacre-Coeur

Sacre-Coeur

Eiffel Tower, view from Sacre-Coeur

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I daresay I will continue to return as the summer unfolds!

A glimpse into the Paris of old…..

If you’d like to get a feel for the Paris of old, then a visit to the Marais district will provide the closest encounter the city offers. Containing more intact buildings and streets that pre-date the French Revolution than any other area in the city, this district provides a glimpse into Paris’ past….before Napoleon and Haussman left their mark by razing the cobblestone streets to create grand avenues and large squares.

Marais district

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Alighting the metro at Bastille is a good starting point, where you will be greeted by the large column in Place de la Bastille. The Bastille was a fortress on this site that was stormed by crowds on the 14th July 1789, an important event in the French Revolution.

From here, venturing west along Rue St-Antoine will lead you to narrow streets that house beautiful Renaissance-style mansions (hôtel particuliers) dating from the the 17th century. The Lonely Planet’s Paris City Guide outlines a 1 1/2 hour walk that takes in some of the notable buildings; the beautiful Eglise St-Paul St-Louis; a number of small museums in the area; pleasant squares and small gardens; and the lovely Place des Vosges.

But even if you don’t have a “set” path to follow, simply walking and exploring would be rewarding enough in itself.

Hotel particulier, Marais

Eglise St-Paul St-Louis, Marais

Hotel particulier, Marais

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The Marais is home to numerous art galleries and small museums where you can soak up some culture and history. One such museum worthy of a visit is the Musée Carnavalet. Part history museum, part art gallery, this historic hôtel particulier houses a collection of 600,000 pieces of art and artefacts in rooms decorated in styles ranging from the 17th to 20th centuries. A covered gallery links the museum to the 17th century Hôtel Le Peletier, which contains older artefacts and important objects from the French Revolution, 19th and 20th centuries. The collection in both of these buildings is extensive, with over 100 rooms to explore. Best of all, entrance to the permanent collection is free.

Musee Carnavalet, Marais

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When you’re looking for a lunch break, venture into the heart of the Jewish quarter along Rue des Rosiers and join the queues outside L’As Du Felafel (closest metro: St-Paul). They have an efficient ordering system and the men behind the counter can whip your order together in a flash, so you’ll have a felafel in your hand (5.50 euros) in no time. I hope you’re hungry, they’re huge! There are numerous Jewish bakeries and shops in and around this area as well.

If felafel or shawarma isn’t to your liking, there are plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in this district to satisfy any palate.

No trip to the Marais is complete without a visit to Place des Vosges. Considered to be the “jewel of Paris” by Napoleon, this symmetrical square was built by Henry VI (originally Place Royale) in the early 17th century, and is the oldest planned square in Paris. The park in the centre offers a splash of green, in contrast to the picturesque red and white houses. A number of cafes are dotted around the exterior, I can recommend lingering for a drink whilst looking out over the square, a rather civilised experience!

Place des Voges, Marais

Place des Voges, Marais

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For fans of “Les Miserables” or “The Hunchback of Notre Dame”, the Maison de Victor Hugo is a small museum housed in the apartment where he resided between 1832 and 1848, located in the south-eastern corner of Place des Vosges. Entrance to the permanent collection is free. Most of the signage is in French, but you can get a feel for the collection without understanding the translation. Audio guides are available (5 euros), but I daresay these are probably for dedicated fans only! There are good views on to Place des Vosges from some of the windows.

As you leave the square, depart through the south-western corner through the archway: you will be greeted by the Hôtel de Sully and its small courtyard garden, now home to the authority responsible for France’s historic monuments.

After having numerous French friends recommend I pay this district a visit, I can now concur it is a lovely spot to stroll around, and to gain a greater appreciation for Paris’ past.

A visit to the city’s premier attraction……

Around fourteen million visitors per year can’t be wrong – the beautiful Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris rates as the city’s top sight, and is a must-see. So don’t be deterred by the queue to enter that extends along the square in front – it moves quickly, and entry is free!

The iconic spires are easily recognisable as you approach the cathedral from one of the numerous bridges across the Seine to reach Île de la Cité. Celebrating its 850th year in 2013, the UNESCO World-Heritage Listed cathedral can house over 6000 worshippers in its vast expanse.

Notre-Dame

Interior, Notre-Dame

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You can pick up an audio guide upon entry (5 euros), or simply enjoy the ambience and wander along at your own pace. Be sure to linger and note the details in the many stained glass windows (including the three large circular Rose Windows), the artwork in the nave side chapels, and wooden carvings alongside the choir depicting “The Passion of the Christ”.

There is also a small treasury within the cathedral that contains artwork and relics (Tresor – entrance for a small fee); whilst the crypt is accessible from a separate entrance in the square out the front, and contains ancient remains of previous structures built on this site.

Choir depicting “The Passion of the Christ”, Notre-Dame

Interior, Notre-Dame

Relic, Treasury, Notre-Dame

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Interesting facts:

• Notre-Dame was significantly damaged during the French Revolution when it was looted by anti-Christian extremists in 1793. The restoration work didn’t commence until 1845, and took 25 years to complete.
• Victor Hugo wrote his famous novel “The Hunchback of Notre-Dame” in 1831, which was instrumental in generating support to restore the cathedral. The book has since been made into 10 film adaptations; numerous TV miniseries, musical theatre and ballet productions; and radio serial broadcasts.
• In 1804, Napoleon invited Pope Pius VII to visit Paris in order to crown him Emperor in Notre-Dame. At the last minute, however, Napoleon seized the crown from the Pope’s hands and crowned himself!
• Since 1905, Notre-Dame has been owned by the French Government who manage its upkeep, but the Catholic Church has exclusive rights to its use.
• In WWII it was feared that bombs may damage or destroy the stained glass windows, so they were removed and stored until the end of the war to preserve them intact.
• The organ in Notre-Dame dates from 1401, and although restored and expanded over the centuries, still contains some of the original pipes. It is the largest organ in France, with over 7000 pipes and five keyboards. It is played electronically.
• All distances from Paris to locations throughout France are measured from Point Zero des Routes de France, designated in the Place du Parvis by a bronze star across the street from the cathedral’s main entrance.

TOP-TIP: Must-Do!

Stick it out in the queue and climb the 422 spiral steps of the Towers (Tours; 8.50 euros) for sweeping views of Paris, and a close-up meeting with the gargoyles and other mythical creatures in the Chimera Gallery.

Views from atop Notre-Dame

Gargoyle, Notre-Dame

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When you depart, be sure to walk around the rear of the cathedral to admire the exterior from all angles, including the “flying buttresses” (arched supports), and stone creatures peering down at your from the rooftop. Also look out for the figures on either side of the thin spire that appear to “climb” the steep roof.

As you leave Île de la Cité, cross the bridge Pont de l’Archevêché – more commonly known as the Love Lock Bridge. This is one of several bridges dotted around Paris where couples cement their love by fastening a padlock with their initials to the bridge, and casting the key into the Seine. They are apparently controversial: a symbol of eternal love, or defacing of public property? You decide!

“Love lock” Bridge and Notre-Dame

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A whirlwind trip to Zurich

Not one to pass up an opportunity to attend a good seminar, I decided to take a trip to Zurich for the weekend to attend a program on Saturday. After all, it’s only 4 hours from Paris on the TGV – a very civilised fast-train journey that was spent listening to music; an audio program; reading on my Kindle; and looking at the beautiful scenery of France and Switzerland whiz by at 250-300km/hour! So we were pulling into Zurich Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in no time.

I actually spent a couple of weeks in Switzerland when I visited Europe in 2001, so I was interested to see how my impressions of Zurich would fare this time. I am well aware that when you are doing large chunks of travel in blocks; constantly taking in new places, sights and experiences; it will of course affect your ability to truly see a new destination with fresh eyes and appreciate the uniqueness of your location. I am sure “cathedral fatigue” must be a well-recognised phenomenon for those who travel extensively around Europe! (In fact, a quick Google search reveals numerous blogs and articles dedicated to this very issue!).

Consequently, the bar gets raised around expectations and grandeur of the sights themselves. Your impressions are also affected by the weather; the food; your experiences with the people; your own mindset and attitude on any given day; and a multitude of other factors.

So when I arrived Friday afternoon, I exited the train station and went for a walk down Bahnhofstrasse to get my bearings. The famous shopping strip contains shops at the northern end (near the train station) that are in the more affordable range. But if you have a healthy budget, continue south, and the options will be able to cater to your every desire! According to Wikipedia, a 2011 study named Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse the most expensive street for retail property in Europe, and the third most expensive worldwide. So have the Gold Amex card handy!

From here I went for a stroll around Aldstat – the Old Town – and along the Limmat River. Although it felt a little contrived, I would speculate this may be more of a reflection of the Swiss pride in maintaing appearances and standards. It is certainly a good example of a well-preserved old town, with its cobbled streets and colourful shops, restaurants and buildings.

Old town along Limmat River, Zurich

Old town and water fountain, Zurich

Limmat River and Fraumunster church, Zurich

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I was actually surprised by how little of the city I remembered. Apart from two of the main churches with their distinctive faces and a vague memory of the lake, I really didn’t have much recollection of the city itself. So it was actually a pleasant experience to rediscover it again. The downside: the realisation I’d love to go back to all of the places I have previously visited in Europe – plus many others I still have on my list……!

Some interesting facts about Switzerland:

• In the Mercer Quality of Living ranking, Zurich was awarded top billing of the world’s cities from 2001 to 2008. From 2009 it has rated second, behind Vienna.
• The nation of Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian, and a language called Romansh that is spoken in a small region of eastern Switzerland.
• Switzerland is officially called the “Swiss Federation”, in Latin: Confoederatio Helvetica, hence its abbreviation CH (eg for websites; and the abbreviation for its currency, Swiss Francs: CHF).
• Zurich has more than 1200 fountains. On Friday, I was horrified to see a child climb up onto a fountain and start drinking the water, while his unperturbed parents watched on! How unhygienic! Well, I subsequently saw half a dozen others do the same thing over the course of the weekend – apparently the water is pretty pristine. (I remain slightly dubious, nonetheless!).
• The clock face of St Peter’s Church
  

  St Peters Church, Zurich

  (St Peterskirche) is the largest in Europe – larger than Big Ben.

• Albert Einstein studied in Zurich for four years, and subsequently worked as a Professor at two different Universities here.

After filling my mind full of information on attitude, mindset, and belief on Saturday, I went for an early evening stroll. The rain from earlier in the day had cleared, and it was a pleasant, cool evening to soak up the activity in and around the Old Town.

Sunday, I simply spent the day around the river. It’s amazing how much detail you notice when you wander without an agenda – looking up to see the unique signs hanging above the restaurants and bars; the displays in the shop windows; the array of food on offer. I had considered doing the two hour tourist tram/trolley today that takes you on a loop around the sights, but it had been raining and overcast in the morning so I had been deterred. Ironically, the sun came out around lunchtime and the weather remained fairly pleasant throughout the afternoon!

Old Town, Zurich

Old Town, Zurich

Old Town, Zurich

So instead, I continued my exploration by foot. A worthwhile stop is Lindenhofplatz Park, an elevated park on the western side of the river that affords great views across the Old Town and beyond.

View from Lindenhofplatz Park, Zurich

View from Lindenhofplatz Park, Zurich

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From here, I stopped by St Peterskirche, then took a look at the colourful, modern stained-glass windows inside Fraumunster church. I then ventured south of Quaibrucke and followed the riverbank past the colourful flowers that look out on to Lake Zurich with the distant mountains beyond. The Opera House was undergoing some renovations, so I looped back up towards the Romanesque-style Grossmunster, the largest church in Zurich.

Lake Zurich

Grossmunster church, Zurich

Bronze carving, Grossmunster church, Zurich

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TOP TIP – SIGHTS

If you only do one thing while in Zurich, climb the Karlsturm Tower (Charles Tower) in the Grossmunster church. It’s the best 4 Francs you’ll spend! And in an expensive city, probably the best value too 🙂

You enter the church through the bronze doors adorned with detailed carvings (added between 1935 and 1950), and walk around past the numerous modern stained glass windows (1932) to the stand towards the rear to buy your ticket. The narrow, winding stone steps soon open up to a series of wooden steps – keep climbing, and you will be rewarded with spectacular views. You can look out over the city from four vantage points around the 360 degree tower. Take your time to look out over the Old Town; the river; Lake Zurich; and to the mountains beyond. Beautiful, quintessential Switzerland!

View from atop the Grossmunster church, Zurich

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TOP TIP – FOOD

No visit to Switzerland is complete without sampling the food they are arguably the most famous for: chocolate! I read a statistic that the Swiss consume approximately 12kg per person per year. Since I would comfortably outstrip that stat, I therefore feel I am well versed to provide an opinion on the chocolate!

I sampled two brands whilst here: Laderach, and Sprungli (both located on the main shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse). My preference would probably have been for the latter – based on my personal tastes and preferences of course. A drawback of Laderach is they do not label their chocolates, so you don’t really know what you are selecting. I still maintain Belgian chocolate is superior, but you are missing out on an essential Swiss experience if you don’t sample the local offerings!

Unfortunately I was unable to locate a spot for an authentic hot chocolate (yes, strange, but true!), but did manage to come across a great eatery in the Old Town on the eastern side: Cafe Henrici. My parting “meal” comprised an organic, home-made apple strudel, served with delicious vanilla bean icecream and a milky chai latte. It was no surprise the place was packed: good quality, wholesome breakfasts; meals; cakes; and an array of hot drinks; juices; and alcohol at reasonable prices. If only I’d discovered it earlier, I may well have eaten here every meal!

Chocolates, Zurich

Apple strudel, Zurich

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So I departed on Sunday evening with a pleasantly refreshed view of the city itself. Yes, I did not spend an extensive amount of time exploring, nor did I exhaustively visit the main attractions. But simply wandering around the Old Town; admiring the architecture and buildings; visiting the churches; and taking in the shopping opportunities along Bahnhofstrasse certainly left a favourable impression upon me.

Oh, and be sure to make it to the station ahead of your scheduled departure – all of the trains in Switzerland leave precisely on time!

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Prepare for an assault on the senses! The lavishly decorated rooms at Chateau de Fontainebleau are adorned with wood panelling; tapestries; frescoes; paintings and carvings will have your eyes working in overdrive to take in the intricacies of the elaborate designs.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

 

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An admission fee of 11 euros will allow you entry to the Grand Apartments (Grands Apartments), Museum of Napoleon I (Musee Napoleon I), and also includes an informative and detailed audioguide to take you through the display.

The history of the chateau is very interesting, and the audioguide provides some insights into notable events and developments that took place here. The original chateau on this site dates from the early 12th century, and it has been a sovereign residence for over seven centuries.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Chateau de Fontainebleau

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A few quick facts:

• Francois I was the first to undertake major remodelling of the chateau in a blend of Italian and French Renaissance styles in the 16th century. Numerous monarchs have subsequently put their stamp on the complex over the centuries.
• The Mona Lisa was displayed here at one time as part of the royal collection.
• Fontainbleau was a favourite haunt of Napoleon Bonaparte, and it was from the 17th-century double-horseshoe shaped staircase in 1814 that he departed for exile in Elba.
• During WWII the chateau was used as German headquarters, until it was liberated by Allied Forces in 1944.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Napoleon’s Throne, Chateau de Fontainebleau

 

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The official website contains a good historical overview of the chateau, as well as containing useful practical information.

It took us almost three hours to complete the tour (allowing time for ample photos). Considering this section only took in a small portion of the 1500+ rooms here, it gives you some appreciation of the vast size of the chateau. For an additional fee, you can also visit the Petits Apartments and the Empresses’ Chinese Museum. There are numerous galleries and museums at the complex.

Highlights included the impressive library, Trinity Chapel (Chapelle de la Trinite), and the Gallery of Francois I (Galerie Francois 1er). The Gallery, with its frescoes created between 1522 and 1540, was the first great decorated gallery built in France, pre-dating the Apollo Gallery in the Louvre and the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles. Throughout the room you will find his monogram and emblem (a dragon-like salamander) in the wood panelling.

Great Library, Chateau de Fontainebleau

Gallery Francois I, Chateau de Fontainebleau

Trinity Chapel, Chateau de Fontainebleau

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The Chateau gardens comprise a number of different sections, and are pleasant to take a stroll through – without containing any major points of interest per se. There is a central lake and a large canal (Grand Canal) that was built in 1609, approximately half a century before the one at Versailles was created.

Another appeal of Fontainebleau is you will find it much less busy than the likes of Versailles, so the gardens in particular offer a pleasant setting to breathe in some fresh air without the crowds.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Chateau de Fontainebleau

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The town of Fontainebleau has grown up around the chateau, so if you have extra time, the town itself can also be explored. In addition, there is a forest just south of the chateau (Foret de Fontainebleau) that is the largest state forest in France. It trails can be utilised for walking, cycling, and horse riding, and is also popular with rock climbers for its numerous gorges.

And for a trip that takes around 40 minutes from Paris’ Gare de Lyon station, exploring Fontainebleau is very easily do-able in a day.

TOP TIP – GETTING THERE

Be sure when you depart Gare de Lyon with your ticket (Paris Zone 1-5) for the bargain price of 8.55 euros, you validate the ticket in the yellow machine at the start of the platform (“compost” your ticket). We were not aware of this requirement and did not see the machine as we made our way on to the train – fortunately the conductor fined us only 30 euros for all three of us, rather than 30 euros each! A potentially costly oversight to an otherwise enjoyable day!