My apartment in Paris is located in the 18th arrondissement, a district in the north of the city that is renowned for the vibrant district of Montmartre, the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre, and as the the location of the Moulin Rouge!
I decided to catch the metro to Abbesses (line 12) in the heart of Montmartre, to spend a couple of hours exploring this part of the district. Although a touristy area, it is still a nice spot to wander.
Rue des Abbesses is a good main thoroughfare to base your exploration around. There are lots of clothing and shoe shops; boutiques; cafe’s; boulangeries; and other produce shops in and around this street. But be warned, the prices also reflect the tourist clientele!
Cafe Des 2 Moulins
Worthy Detour: For fans of the French film Amelie, be sure to detour from Rue des Abbesses down Rue Lepic (southwards towards Boulevard De Clichy). About half-way along this street, you will come across “Cafe Des 2 Moulins” – the cafe Amelie worked in! You can fight the crowds and indulge in something to eat or drink, and see up close the prints featuring excerpts from the movie of Amelie (Audrey Tatou) in action.
From here, continue on to Boulevard De Clichy, and just to the right, you will see The Moulin Rouge. There is a pedestrianised strip in the middle of the Boulevard where you can join the other tourists in getting your photo. If you wish to see a show, be prepared to part with 99 euros for the 11pm sitting, dinner and an earlier session will set you back around 180 euros. To access the Moulin Rouge directly, the metro stop Blanche (line 2) will land you in the middle of Boulevard De Clichy, in the heart of the action.
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A good detour back up to Rue Lepic is via the Cimetiere de Montmartre (cemetery), the resting place of numerous notable Parisians such as Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola, and composers Jacques Offenbach and Hector Berlioz.
TOP TIP – Reaching Sacre Coeur:
On foot: Montmartre is full of steep, narrow streets that invariably lead to the majestic Sacre Coeur, with its commanding views over the city. But reaching it can be a little daunting! If you want a good cardiac workout, tackle any one of the staircases that will invariably lead you to the Basilica. But for a more pleasurable and less strenuous option, take the gradual incline along Rue Lepic up to Place J-B Clement, then follow the narrow touristy streets to Sacre Coeur. You’ll hardly break a sweat! This route will also take you past the rustic-looking historic Moulin Radet, an old mill where you can stop at the adjoining cafe for a meal or a drink.
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By transport:
- If you’d prefer to save your legs for other city walking, you can catch the funicular railway from the base of the hill that takes you one staircase shy of the top for the cost of one metro ticket.
- There is also Montmartrobus bus, which will take you up Rue Lepic to the Basilica. Look out for the stops marked with blue signs.
- An alternative option that is especially kid-friendly, is to catch the Promotrain that departs from Place Blanche and takes you on a 40 minute commentated ride that finishes at the Basilica (6 euros adults/3.50 kids).
For me, Montmartre is memorable for another reason: it was here I had my first nutella crepe on my original visit to Paris in 2001! You can now obtain this local “speciality” at many tourist locations throughout the city, but it is here I first sampled this tasty delight. There are no shortage of vendors to choose from. There is also plenty of more gourmet produce on offer as well!
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In addition, there are a number of small museums and galleries in the area – the Lonely Planet Paris has a good summary of these, including opening hours and prices. There are also plenty of artists ready and willing to create your caricature around the (ultra-touristy) Place du Tertre, along with their many (usually painted) depictions of Paris landmarks you can buy as a memento of your trip.
Once you reach Sacre Coeur, you can visit the interior, climb the dome, and see the crypt; or simply admire the exterior and the views. Since it was raining and overcast, I decided to save my interior visit for a day that is more conducive to getting good views from the dome – where you can reputedly see up to 30km on a clear day.
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Despite the inclement weather, the city views were still impressive. You can make out multiple famous sights, including the Centre Pompidou and the Eiffel Tower (if you discover the right angle to look!). You can then descend via the green lawns and steps that take you down to Square Louise Michel, where more shops and cafes await to tempt you.
TOP TIP – Safety: Make sure you have your wits about you at the base of the hill from Sacre Coeur, amongst the buskers and performers the area is also apparently a hotspot for pickpockets.
And so completed an enjoyable few hours’ of wandering. There is a lot more to this district that is also worth exploring, so I intend to continue my discoveries on another day.
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