London from the south side

When in London, I can highly recommend taking a walk along South Bank, which skirts along the Thames.

Southbank, London

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The area I explored stretched from Tower Bridge, down to the London Eye and Westminster. I’d advise allowing at least half a day, but if you want to stop and explore the many attractions and sights along the way, you would need a day or two to really do it justice.

Crossing Tower Bridge, London

Tower Bridge, London

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It’s quite a lively area, and is enjoyable just to walk and take in the views and absorb the ambience. But if you’d like to explore the sights, the major attractions I passed by (or near enough to detour to) include the following:

• Tower Bridge
• The Shard
• Borough Markets
• Southwark Cathedral
• London Dungeon
• Millennium Bridge (direct views of St Paul’s Cathedral from the Bridge)
• Tate Modern Gallery
• Shakespare’s Globe Theatre
• Waterloo Bridge (great views of the London Eye and Houses of Parliament on the other side of the river)
• London Eye
• London Aquarium

Southbank, London

Southbank, London

All in a day’s work, The Shard, London

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You will also come across some lively squares; modern architecture in the business district; cafes and riverside pubs tempting you to pause for a break; and even some interesting artwork under a bridge!

Southbank, London

Southbank, London

A drink by the river, Southbank, London

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If you wish to cross one of the several bridges you will encounter to the other side of the Thames, you can also add to your list:

• The Tower of London
• St Paul’s Cathedral
• Monument
• Victoria Embankment Gardens
• Westminster and Houses of Parliament

London Eye, London

Millennium Bridge & St Paul’s, London

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The above lists are not exhaustive, there is a website with information about events and attractions in the South Bank region if you wish to delve further. It also lists some interesting themed walks you can do in this area.

So put on your walking shoes, grab your camera, and get out there and enjoy!

Iconic vistas with a twist

When I take photographs, I always try and capture a view or perspective that is a little different. Of course I take the “classic” and “standard” angles, but I also ensure I look up, down, around, and see what other angles or perspectives catch my eye.

I find this takes the photo album ‘up a notch’ and adds a real element of interest and enjoyment when reviewing the pictures.

Paris is such a walkable city, there are vistas everywhere that are photo-worthy.

I will be creating a Paris photography portfolio page in the future, but in the meantime, here is a small collection of some of the images I have captured thus far. I am sure you will recognise some of the well-known icons.

Enjoy!

Sunset, Jardin des Tuileries

Eiffel Tower

Silhouettes, The Louvre

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Love locks and Notre-Dame

Views from atop Sacre-Coeur

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Reflection, The Louvre

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Eiffel Tower

Shadows, Place de la Concorde

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La Defense

La Defense

La Defense

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Underneath the Eiffel Tower

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The golden mile

One of my favourite parts of Paris is the stretch from the Arc de Triomphe; along the Champs-Élysées; down to Place de la Concorde; through Jardin des Tuileries; and finally, the Louvre.

I have termed it “the golden mile” as there are so many majestic sights within a small distance. So particularly if your time is short in the city, I can highly recommend the following route, since you’ll cram a lot into a relatively short area (and timeframe), whilst getting a generous dose of quintessential Paris!

Starting point: Arc De Triomphe

As you emerge from the metro at Charles de Gaulle Étoile (line 1; exit 1), you will be greeted with views of the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile. After taking a few obligatory photos, descend through the underpass and follow the walkway to reach the arch, where you can walk around, under and through it. Don’t even try to navigate the road to cross to the arch – it is not for the faint-hearted, drivers and pedestrians alike!

Arc de Triomphe

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The Arc de Triomphe was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate those who have fought for France, primarily in the Napoleonic wars. It is the central feature of the historic axis (Axe historique) – a sequence of monuments and wide thoroughfares stretching from the courtyard of the Louvre, up to the Grande Arche de la Défense in the business district.

The Arc de Triomphe was the biggest triumphal arch in the world until it was surpassed in 1982 (by North Korea!). Do take the time to circle it 360 degrees, and look up to observe the details and intricacies of the sculptures and reliefs on the pillars. Under the vault is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier where the eternal flame burns, surrounded by poppies. Major battles, victories, and commanders names are also inscribed on the arch. More details about the depictions are described here.

La Résistance de 1814 sculpture, Arc de Triomphe

Grand Arcade, Arc de Triomphe

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Also while you’re here, ensure you climb to the top (9.50€) for great views of the twelve avenues radiating out from the central roundabout the arch is located upon, including the most famous of all, the Champs-Élysées. You will be rewarded with panoramic views of the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur, and more.

Second highlight: Champs-Élysées

The Avenue des Champs-Élysées has been described as la plus belle avenue du monde (“the most beautiful avenue in the world”). Designed in the 17th century, its wide, tree-lined footpaths and opulent shops provide a pleasant setting for a stroll.

Make your way along the avenue to people watch, window shop, and take in the general ambience. You’ll come across a couple of spectacular car show rooms to keep the men-folk occupied; whilst the ladies can take in the opulence at Cartier or Louis Vuitton (be prepared to queue outside). But there are also plenty of offerings for the budget-conscious as well, to ensure every shopper remains happy – irrespective of your credit card limit!

There are numerous options to stop for a drink or a meal (venture a couple of blocks either side for a lower price tag!), or join the queues outside the very civilised tea-room Ladurée for a sweet treat, or their speciality, macaroons.

Champs-Elysees

Macaroons, Ladurée

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As you continue, the shops disperse to reveal green spaces on either side of the avenue, until you reach Place de la Concorde.

Third stop: Detour past the Grand Palais to Pont Alexandre III for views across the Seine

About half-way along the Champs-Élysées, on the right hand side as you walk away from the Arc de Triomphe, you’ll come across the Grand Palais. It’s worth detouring down this stretch (past the Petit Palais on the other side of the road) to Pont Alexandre III, where you can get views across this bridge to the gold dome of Invalides, and across the Seine to the Eiffel Tower.

View to Invalides from Pont Alexandre III

Pont Alexandre III

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Fourth stop: Place de la Concorde

Turn back to the Champs-Élysées and continue until you reach Place de la Concorde – you can’t miss it! The largest square in Paris has many features to enjoy.

Highlights include:

• The 23-metre, 3,300 year old Luxor Obelisk was given to France by the Egyptian government in the 19th century. This obelisk is decorated with hieroglyphics dedicated to the reign of the pharaoh Ramses II, and once stood at the entrance of the famous Luxor Temple in Egypt.
• Three years after its arrival, King Louis Philippe had it relocated to the centre of Place de la Concorde – where a guillotine once stood during the French Revolution that saw the execution of Queen Marie Antoinette in 1793, along with thousands of others.
• The design and alignment of the two fountains in the square was influenced by the fountains of Rome.
• At each of the eight (octagonal) ‘corners’ in the square is a statue that represents a French city.
• Numerous notable buildings surround the square, so pause to enjoy the stately architecture.
• Wikipedia contains a good outline of the rich history of the square, click here if you’d like to discover more!

Place de la Concorde

Obelisk, Place de la Concorde

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You’re almost there……!

By now, it is time for some R&R in the beautiful Jardin des Tuileries (previous blog post here) as you make your way towards the Louvre (previous blog post here).

The Louvre and Pyramid

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There are numerous lovely spots to explore in and around this area, which contains some of the most beautiful and opulent hotels, shops, and buildings in Paris.

But I’ll elaborate on that another day!

A visit to the city’s premier attraction……

Around fourteen million visitors per year can’t be wrong – the beautiful Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris rates as the city’s top sight, and is a must-see. So don’t be deterred by the queue to enter that extends along the square in front – it moves quickly, and entry is free!

The iconic spires are easily recognisable as you approach the cathedral from one of the numerous bridges across the Seine to reach Île de la Cité. Celebrating its 850th year in 2013, the UNESCO World-Heritage Listed cathedral can house over 6000 worshippers in its vast expanse.

Notre-Dame

Interior, Notre-Dame

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You can pick up an audio guide upon entry (5 euros), or simply enjoy the ambience and wander along at your own pace. Be sure to linger and note the details in the many stained glass windows (including the three large circular Rose Windows), the artwork in the nave side chapels, and wooden carvings alongside the choir depicting “The Passion of the Christ”.

There is also a small treasury within the cathedral that contains artwork and relics (Tresor – entrance for a small fee); whilst the crypt is accessible from a separate entrance in the square out the front, and contains ancient remains of previous structures built on this site.

Choir depicting “The Passion of the Christ”, Notre-Dame

Interior, Notre-Dame

Relic, Treasury, Notre-Dame

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Interesting facts:

• Notre-Dame was significantly damaged during the French Revolution when it was looted by anti-Christian extremists in 1793. The restoration work didn’t commence until 1845, and took 25 years to complete.
• Victor Hugo wrote his famous novel “The Hunchback of Notre-Dame” in 1831, which was instrumental in generating support to restore the cathedral. The book has since been made into 10 film adaptations; numerous TV miniseries, musical theatre and ballet productions; and radio serial broadcasts.
• In 1804, Napoleon invited Pope Pius VII to visit Paris in order to crown him Emperor in Notre-Dame. At the last minute, however, Napoleon seized the crown from the Pope’s hands and crowned himself!
• Since 1905, Notre-Dame has been owned by the French Government who manage its upkeep, but the Catholic Church has exclusive rights to its use.
• In WWII it was feared that bombs may damage or destroy the stained glass windows, so they were removed and stored until the end of the war to preserve them intact.
• The organ in Notre-Dame dates from 1401, and although restored and expanded over the centuries, still contains some of the original pipes. It is the largest organ in France, with over 7000 pipes and five keyboards. It is played electronically.
• All distances from Paris to locations throughout France are measured from Point Zero des Routes de France, designated in the Place du Parvis by a bronze star across the street from the cathedral’s main entrance.

TOP-TIP: Must-Do!

Stick it out in the queue and climb the 422 spiral steps of the Towers (Tours; 8.50 euros) for sweeping views of Paris, and a close-up meeting with the gargoyles and other mythical creatures in the Chimera Gallery.

Views from atop Notre-Dame

Gargoyle, Notre-Dame

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When you depart, be sure to walk around the rear of the cathedral to admire the exterior from all angles, including the “flying buttresses” (arched supports), and stone creatures peering down at your from the rooftop. Also look out for the figures on either side of the thin spire that appear to “climb” the steep roof.

As you leave Île de la Cité, cross the bridge Pont de l’Archevêché – more commonly known as the Love Lock Bridge. This is one of several bridges dotted around Paris where couples cement their love by fastening a padlock with their initials to the bridge, and casting the key into the Seine. They are apparently controversial: a symbol of eternal love, or defacing of public property? You decide!

“Love lock” Bridge and Notre-Dame

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Saturate yourself in culture (and crowds!) at the Louvre

Immense. Vast. Overwhelming. Beautiful.

Housing a collection of 380,000 objects and 35,000 pieces of art, it is estimated if you spent 30 seconds looking at each piece on display in the Louvre it would take you around 100 days to view the entire collection – and that’s on a 24/7 schedule without any breaks! An exhausting thought.

The world’s largest and most visited museum (accommodating around 15,000 visitors per day) is one of the most iconic sights in Paris.

Looking out from in, The Louvre

The vast Palais du Louvre was originally a fortress that dates from the early 12th century. It was rebuilt in the mid-16th century as a royal residence, before being turned into a national museum in 1793. President Mitterand commissioned further expansion in 1989 to accommodate the growing number of visitors, a project that saw the construction of IM Pei’s famous Pyramid, along with a modern development housing restaurants and shops beneath it.

Three main wings contain works of art divided into eight curatorial departments that span over 60,500 square metres: the Near Eastern Antiquities; Egyptian Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan and Roman Antiquities; Islamic Art; Sculptures; Decorative Arts; Paintings; and Prints and Drawings. In order to tackle the collection in a manageable way, I invested an additional 5 euros in an audio guide. Money well spent!

The high-tech Nintendo-3DS XL sensed my location, directed me through the collections with 3D images and maps, and automatically commenced the audios when I reached the next featured piece. You can select a themed tour, or simply carve your own trail and enter in the numbers that correspond to the objects you would like to hear about. It is worth perusing the official Louvre website before your visit to select the trail(s) you might like to undertake, and to obtain useful practical information on all aspects of your visit.

Many first-time visitors are keen to see the museum’s “three great ladies” as the official website describes them — the statue of Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory of Samothrace (depicting the Greek goddess “Nike” [Victory]), and Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. The “Masterpieces” audio guide will ensure you find them.

Venus de Milo, Louvre

The Mona Lisa, The Louvre

Winged Victory of Samothrace, The Louvre

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The Coronation of the Emperor Napoleon I, The Louvre

This is the one I selected, and I enjoyed the selection of sculptures and artwork it provided a commentary on. Another noteworthy feature on this trail is the colossal 10m x 6m painting of The Coronation of the Emperor Napoleon I, by Jacques-Louis David. This masterpiece took three years to complete, and was commissioned by Napoleon to mark his coronation in 1804.

But brace yourself, the crowds are thick throughout these sections. And in order to get close to the Mona Lisa for a photo, you will have to be prepared to squash yourself into the throng and gradually edge your way to the front – whilst still being at a distance of a couple of metres from the piece itself, which is protected by glass casing. But you can get good views, although be prepared – it’s small!

After my audio tour was completed, I spent some time wandering through a random selection of other rooms, in particular, the extensive collection of Egyptian artefacts. Well worth a look.

TOP TIP – Look up….and out!

Also worth a mention are the rooms and galleries that display the collections; they are in themselves a work of art. So be sure to glance upwards and admire the frescoes, carvings, and paintings on the ceilings and walls. Truly a beautiful building inside and out. Also glance out of the windows as you explore, you will be rewarded with views of the exterior of the building, along with a few picturesque vistas of surrounding Paris.

Reflection, The Louvre

View from the interior to the courtyard, The Louvre

The Louvre

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As there are over a dozen eateries in and around the museum in the Carrousel du Louvre shopping complex, it is possible to take a reprise and then continue your visit – just keep your ticket handy to show it again as you re-enter the collections. But be prepared to pay inflated prices. The Louvre is also open until 9.45pm on Wednesdays and Fridays, so a 12-hour marathon visit is indeed possible! But don’t plan your visit on a Tuesday – it’s closed.

Be sure to combine your visit to the Louvre with some fresh air and nature in the adjacent Carrousel and Tuileries Gardens (Jardin des Tuileries). It is actually quite dramatic to approach the museum from the gardens, as you walk through the archway (Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel) the expanse of the Louvre and Pyramid unfolds before you.

Also visible from the gardens is the upper section of the Eiffel Tower, and there are numerous sculptures dotted around the garden as well. From the archway, turn around (with your back facing the Louvre) for great views towards the Obelisk in Place de La Concorde, and the Arc de Triomphe in the distance.

Sunset, Jardin des Tuileries

View to the Obelisk and Arc de Triomphe, Jardin des Tuileries

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I don’t remotely proclaim to be any sort of art aficionado – to be perfectly honest, I often derive more enjoyment from the architecture of the grand buildings and surrounding gardens that tend to house the artwork, rather than spending countless hours studying the works of art themselves – but I really enjoyed my visit today. Even when I started to tire, I still found myself detouring to explore “just one more room”, before finally deciding I was saturated and couldn’t possibly take any more in!

So even for those who are not major art lovers, I daresay it is hard not to be enchanted by the beauty of the Louvre.

And if you can, time your departure to ensure you see it lit up in the evening: spectacular!

Nightfall, the Louvre

Nightfall, the Louvre

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Photography – an ongoing journey

Ever since I can remember, I have always enjoyed taking photos. When I started to travel overseas, the desire to be able to take good quality pictures increased – not only to do justice to the many magnificent sights, but to capture the best possible memories of my experiences as well. I also derive a great deal of satisfaction when reviewing my shots and feeling as though I have captured some great images!

For years I resisted the urge to invest in a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera, due to the weight and bulk of carrying it around. Particularly as a lone female traveller in many instances, I also didn’t want to be a target carrying around expensive gear!

But I reached a point whereby the point and shoot camera just wasn’t cutting it. I thus invested in an entry-level DSLR in 2009, just before my trip to Thailand. A Nikon D60 with kit lenses (18-55mm and 55-200mm), a UV filter and a polarising filter. You couldn’t wipe the smile from my face! Although I did a lot of shooting on this trip on the “auto” setting, I managed to get a few postcard-like shots using my polarising filter. I was hooked.

Traditional boats, Bamboo Island

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Once I became more familiar with the functionality of the camera, and used it in a few more locations, I began to notice limitations in the type and quality of shots I was obtaining.

Many people make the assumption that if you invest in a better, more expensive camera you will automatically take better photos. This is not true! An average shot will look average, even on a fancy camera. It is important to become familiar with the functionality of whatever camera you are using if you want to achieve more interesting and artistic-looking images, rather than a run-of-the-mill result.

Mirrors, Chicago

Butterfly, Melbourne Zoo, Australia

Golden Temple, Amritsar

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So just prior to this trip, I decided to upgrade. I invested in a Nikon D3000 (for those familiar with camera specs, I decided not to go for full-frame due to the bulk, weight and expense of the equipment), with a Tamron 18-270mm lens, a Sigma 10-20mm wide-angle lens, and a Nikon Nikkor 60mm macro lens. This camera is quite a leap in complexity from my previous model, and I am still learning about the basic functionality of it – let alone the more advanced options!

I have also enrolled in an online photography diploma, to learn a little more about the technical aspects of photography. It is an art in which you can spend many years learning about, applying the principles, and honing your skills. There is also the reality that certain people have more of a natural flair than others.

I also enjoy wiling away many hours reviewing my catalogue of shots, tweaking them in Adobe Lightroom, and reviewing the finished products. Travel and photography are two of my favourite past-times, and they make the perfect combination!

So I am on a journey of learning and discovery, and I figure what better place to continue to develop my skills than in one of the world’s most photogenic cities: Paris!

I have uploaded a selection of my favourite shots from the last few years on my Photography Portfolio – World Travels page. The older shots are jpg’s (I now shoot in RAW), some are a little overexposed and have limitations in their quality, but I have selected the shots based on their subject(s); composition; and my overall impression of the image; rather than just the technical execution of whether or not I got it “right”.

I hope you enjoy the selection I have included, and I will continue to build upon the collection with images from my European adventures this year.

The journey continues 🙂

A whirlwind trip to Zurich

Not one to pass up an opportunity to attend a good seminar, I decided to take a trip to Zurich for the weekend to attend a program on Saturday. After all, it’s only 4 hours from Paris on the TGV – a very civilised fast-train journey that was spent listening to music; an audio program; reading on my Kindle; and looking at the beautiful scenery of France and Switzerland whiz by at 250-300km/hour! So we were pulling into Zurich Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in no time.

I actually spent a couple of weeks in Switzerland when I visited Europe in 2001, so I was interested to see how my impressions of Zurich would fare this time. I am well aware that when you are doing large chunks of travel in blocks; constantly taking in new places, sights and experiences; it will of course affect your ability to truly see a new destination with fresh eyes and appreciate the uniqueness of your location. I am sure “cathedral fatigue” must be a well-recognised phenomenon for those who travel extensively around Europe! (In fact, a quick Google search reveals numerous blogs and articles dedicated to this very issue!).

Consequently, the bar gets raised around expectations and grandeur of the sights themselves. Your impressions are also affected by the weather; the food; your experiences with the people; your own mindset and attitude on any given day; and a multitude of other factors.

So when I arrived Friday afternoon, I exited the train station and went for a walk down Bahnhofstrasse to get my bearings. The famous shopping strip contains shops at the northern end (near the train station) that are in the more affordable range. But if you have a healthy budget, continue south, and the options will be able to cater to your every desire! According to Wikipedia, a 2011 study named Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse the most expensive street for retail property in Europe, and the third most expensive worldwide. So have the Gold Amex card handy!

From here I went for a stroll around Aldstat – the Old Town – and along the Limmat River. Although it felt a little contrived, I would speculate this may be more of a reflection of the Swiss pride in maintaing appearances and standards. It is certainly a good example of a well-preserved old town, with its cobbled streets and colourful shops, restaurants and buildings.

Old town along Limmat River, Zurich

Old town and water fountain, Zurich

Limmat River and Fraumunster church, Zurich

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I was actually surprised by how little of the city I remembered. Apart from two of the main churches with their distinctive faces and a vague memory of the lake, I really didn’t have much recollection of the city itself. So it was actually a pleasant experience to rediscover it again. The downside: the realisation I’d love to go back to all of the places I have previously visited in Europe – plus many others I still have on my list……!

Some interesting facts about Switzerland:

• In the Mercer Quality of Living ranking, Zurich was awarded top billing of the world’s cities from 2001 to 2008. From 2009 it has rated second, behind Vienna.
• The nation of Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian, and a language called Romansh that is spoken in a small region of eastern Switzerland.
• Switzerland is officially called the “Swiss Federation”, in Latin: Confoederatio Helvetica, hence its abbreviation CH (eg for websites; and the abbreviation for its currency, Swiss Francs: CHF).
• Zurich has more than 1200 fountains. On Friday, I was horrified to see a child climb up onto a fountain and start drinking the water, while his unperturbed parents watched on! How unhygienic! Well, I subsequently saw half a dozen others do the same thing over the course of the weekend – apparently the water is pretty pristine. (I remain slightly dubious, nonetheless!).
• The clock face of St Peter’s Church
  

  St Peters Church, Zurich

  (St Peterskirche) is the largest in Europe – larger than Big Ben.

• Albert Einstein studied in Zurich for four years, and subsequently worked as a Professor at two different Universities here.

After filling my mind full of information on attitude, mindset, and belief on Saturday, I went for an early evening stroll. The rain from earlier in the day had cleared, and it was a pleasant, cool evening to soak up the activity in and around the Old Town.

Sunday, I simply spent the day around the river. It’s amazing how much detail you notice when you wander without an agenda – looking up to see the unique signs hanging above the restaurants and bars; the displays in the shop windows; the array of food on offer. I had considered doing the two hour tourist tram/trolley today that takes you on a loop around the sights, but it had been raining and overcast in the morning so I had been deterred. Ironically, the sun came out around lunchtime and the weather remained fairly pleasant throughout the afternoon!

Old Town, Zurich

Old Town, Zurich

Old Town, Zurich

So instead, I continued my exploration by foot. A worthwhile stop is Lindenhofplatz Park, an elevated park on the western side of the river that affords great views across the Old Town and beyond.

View from Lindenhofplatz Park, Zurich

View from Lindenhofplatz Park, Zurich

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From here, I stopped by St Peterskirche, then took a look at the colourful, modern stained-glass windows inside Fraumunster church. I then ventured south of Quaibrucke and followed the riverbank past the colourful flowers that look out on to Lake Zurich with the distant mountains beyond. The Opera House was undergoing some renovations, so I looped back up towards the Romanesque-style Grossmunster, the largest church in Zurich.

Lake Zurich

Grossmunster church, Zurich

Bronze carving, Grossmunster church, Zurich

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TOP TIP – SIGHTS

If you only do one thing while in Zurich, climb the Karlsturm Tower (Charles Tower) in the Grossmunster church. It’s the best 4 Francs you’ll spend! And in an expensive city, probably the best value too 🙂

You enter the church through the bronze doors adorned with detailed carvings (added between 1935 and 1950), and walk around past the numerous modern stained glass windows (1932) to the stand towards the rear to buy your ticket. The narrow, winding stone steps soon open up to a series of wooden steps – keep climbing, and you will be rewarded with spectacular views. You can look out over the city from four vantage points around the 360 degree tower. Take your time to look out over the Old Town; the river; Lake Zurich; and to the mountains beyond. Beautiful, quintessential Switzerland!

View from atop the Grossmunster church, Zurich

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TOP TIP – FOOD

No visit to Switzerland is complete without sampling the food they are arguably the most famous for: chocolate! I read a statistic that the Swiss consume approximately 12kg per person per year. Since I would comfortably outstrip that stat, I therefore feel I am well versed to provide an opinion on the chocolate!

I sampled two brands whilst here: Laderach, and Sprungli (both located on the main shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse). My preference would probably have been for the latter – based on my personal tastes and preferences of course. A drawback of Laderach is they do not label their chocolates, so you don’t really know what you are selecting. I still maintain Belgian chocolate is superior, but you are missing out on an essential Swiss experience if you don’t sample the local offerings!

Unfortunately I was unable to locate a spot for an authentic hot chocolate (yes, strange, but true!), but did manage to come across a great eatery in the Old Town on the eastern side: Cafe Henrici. My parting “meal” comprised an organic, home-made apple strudel, served with delicious vanilla bean icecream and a milky chai latte. It was no surprise the place was packed: good quality, wholesome breakfasts; meals; cakes; and an array of hot drinks; juices; and alcohol at reasonable prices. If only I’d discovered it earlier, I may well have eaten here every meal!

Chocolates, Zurich

Apple strudel, Zurich

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So I departed on Sunday evening with a pleasantly refreshed view of the city itself. Yes, I did not spend an extensive amount of time exploring, nor did I exhaustively visit the main attractions. But simply wandering around the Old Town; admiring the architecture and buildings; visiting the churches; and taking in the shopping opportunities along Bahnhofstrasse certainly left a favourable impression upon me.

Oh, and be sure to make it to the station ahead of your scheduled departure – all of the trains in Switzerland leave precisely on time!

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Prepare for an assault on the senses! The lavishly decorated rooms at Chateau de Fontainebleau are adorned with wood panelling; tapestries; frescoes; paintings and carvings will have your eyes working in overdrive to take in the intricacies of the elaborate designs.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

 

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An admission fee of 11 euros will allow you entry to the Grand Apartments (Grands Apartments), Museum of Napoleon I (Musee Napoleon I), and also includes an informative and detailed audioguide to take you through the display.

The history of the chateau is very interesting, and the audioguide provides some insights into notable events and developments that took place here. The original chateau on this site dates from the early 12th century, and it has been a sovereign residence for over seven centuries.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Chateau de Fontainebleau

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A few quick facts:

• Francois I was the first to undertake major remodelling of the chateau in a blend of Italian and French Renaissance styles in the 16th century. Numerous monarchs have subsequently put their stamp on the complex over the centuries.
• The Mona Lisa was displayed here at one time as part of the royal collection.
• Fontainbleau was a favourite haunt of Napoleon Bonaparte, and it was from the 17th-century double-horseshoe shaped staircase in 1814 that he departed for exile in Elba.
• During WWII the chateau was used as German headquarters, until it was liberated by Allied Forces in 1944.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Napoleon’s Throne, Chateau de Fontainebleau

 

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The official website contains a good historical overview of the chateau, as well as containing useful practical information.

It took us almost three hours to complete the tour (allowing time for ample photos). Considering this section only took in a small portion of the 1500+ rooms here, it gives you some appreciation of the vast size of the chateau. For an additional fee, you can also visit the Petits Apartments and the Empresses’ Chinese Museum. There are numerous galleries and museums at the complex.

Highlights included the impressive library, Trinity Chapel (Chapelle de la Trinite), and the Gallery of Francois I (Galerie Francois 1er). The Gallery, with its frescoes created between 1522 and 1540, was the first great decorated gallery built in France, pre-dating the Apollo Gallery in the Louvre and the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles. Throughout the room you will find his monogram and emblem (a dragon-like salamander) in the wood panelling.

Great Library, Chateau de Fontainebleau

Gallery Francois I, Chateau de Fontainebleau

Trinity Chapel, Chateau de Fontainebleau

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The Chateau gardens comprise a number of different sections, and are pleasant to take a stroll through – without containing any major points of interest per se. There is a central lake and a large canal (Grand Canal) that was built in 1609, approximately half a century before the one at Versailles was created.

Another appeal of Fontainebleau is you will find it much less busy than the likes of Versailles, so the gardens in particular offer a pleasant setting to breathe in some fresh air without the crowds.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Chateau de Fontainebleau

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The town of Fontainebleau has grown up around the chateau, so if you have extra time, the town itself can also be explored. In addition, there is a forest just south of the chateau (Foret de Fontainebleau) that is the largest state forest in France. It trails can be utilised for walking, cycling, and horse riding, and is also popular with rock climbers for its numerous gorges.

And for a trip that takes around 40 minutes from Paris’ Gare de Lyon station, exploring Fontainebleau is very easily do-able in a day.

TOP TIP – GETTING THERE

Be sure when you depart Gare de Lyon with your ticket (Paris Zone 1-5) for the bargain price of 8.55 euros, you validate the ticket in the yellow machine at the start of the platform (“compost” your ticket). We were not aware of this requirement and did not see the machine as we made our way on to the train – fortunately the conductor fined us only 30 euros for all three of us, rather than 30 euros each! A potentially costly oversight to an otherwise enjoyable day!

A day trip to Chartres

A worthwhile day trip out of Paris is to the historic town of Chartres and its impressive UNESCO World-Heritage Listed Notre Dame Cathedral.

Camera in hand, I boarded the train at Paris Montparnasse with my parents (who are visiting for a few days as part of a European holiday they had taken). An hour and a quarter later, after passing through quaint little towns bursting with spring blossoms, the unmistakable cathedral spires came into view as the train pulled into Chartres.

Cathedral, Chartres

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A Romanesque cathedral once stood on this site, but it was largely destroyed during a fire in 1194. The cathedral was rebuilt in a mere 30 years during the 13th century in Gothic style. The resultant structure is thus a blend of the two architectural styles, the most obvious discrepancy being evident in the two spires.

The western facade and crypt (which you can visit for a small fee – although it does not contain any tombs) date from the original cathedral, as does the Old Bell Tower (Clocher Vieux). At 105 metres, it is the tallest Romanesque steeple still standing. You can climb the New Bell Tower/North Tower (Clocher Neuf) for 7.50 euros if you’re feeling energetic (300+ steps), we didn’t as the weather and thus visibility was not favourable to make the effort worthwhile!

Aside from the imposing spires, the two features that stand out when you view the cathedral are the intricate carvings surrounding the exterior, and the stained glass windows you can admire on the inside: 172 in all!

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

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Allow some time to do a full circuit of the exterior to view the amazing carvings that depict Christian figures and scenes. The west entrance (Portail Royal) pre-dates the fire, with the carvings here created from 1145 to 1155. Considering their age, they are remarkably well preserved.

The stained glass windows were created during the 12th and 13th centuries. They are particularly famous for the shade of blue in the older windows that was created using cobalt oxide, and is referred to as “Chartres blue”. The darkness inside the cathedral helps accentuate the details and craftsmanship evident in the windows. My photos are only hand-held (I don’t have a tripod as yet with me over here), but some have turned out quite well as examples of the scenes depicted in the windows.

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

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Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

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If you are interested in a more detailed overview of the history and features of the cathedral, you can join a tour in French or English, or rent an audioguide from the cathedral bookshop.

Be sure to visit the Tourist Office while you are in Chartres to get a map of the town with a route of the historic walk you can do. Allow up to an hour and a half to meander down the cobbled streets, admire the half-timbered houses, and take in the quaint vistas along the river Eure looking back up to the cathedral.

View of Cathedral from River Eure, Chartres

Half-timbered houses, Chartres

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Other parts of the town itself are also worth a wander, and take the time to enjoy a break in one of the patisseries, or sample some of the locally made chocolates. Macaroons aplenty are on offer at La Chocoleterie at Place du Cygne, they even have a nutella variety!

The Chartres Guide Book you can pick up from the Tourist Office outlines other museums and points of interest you can also explore in the town if you wish, and the Lonely Planet France also has a good description of places of interest and notable historic buildings.

If you are staying here overnight or don’t mind a late train ride back to Paris, from April to September twenty-nine of the city’s historic buildings are lit up with coloured lights to the sounds of music after nightfall (Chartres en Lumieres). Unfortunately it started raining mid-afternoon during our visit, and considering it doesn’t get dark until around 9.30pm, we did not stay to see this display.

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chartres

Chartres

Chartres

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I also discovered that Chartres is considered the “heart of the Cosmetic Valley”, being home to famous brand names such as Calvin Klein, Guerlain and Davidoff. So shop to your hearts’ content and watch the years melt away! 😉

But for us, the main focus of our visit was the cathedral; the historic walk; and an afternoon macaroon and hot chocolate; after which we returned to Paris with memory cards bulging with hundreds of photos to sort through!

Montmartre

My apartment in Paris is located in the 18th arrondissement, a district in the north of the city that is renowned for the vibrant district of Montmartre, the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre, and as the the location of the Moulin Rouge!

I decided to catch the metro to Abbesses (line 12) in the heart of Montmartre, to spend a couple of hours exploring this part of the district. Although a touristy area, it is still a nice spot to wander.

Rue des Abbesses is a good main thoroughfare to base your exploration around. There are lots of clothing and shoe shops; boutiques; cafe’s; boulangeries; and other produce shops in and around this street. But be warned, the prices also reflect the tourist clientele!

Cafe Des 2 Moulins

Worthy Detour: For fans of the French film Amelie, be sure to detour from Rue des Abbesses down Rue Lepic (southwards towards Boulevard De Clichy). About half-way along this street, you will come across “Cafe Des 2 Moulins” – the cafe Amelie worked in! You can fight the crowds and indulge in something to eat or drink, and see up close the prints featuring excerpts from the movie of Amelie (Audrey Tatou) in action.

From here, continue on to Boulevard De Clichy, and just to the right, you will see The Moulin Rouge. There is a pedestrianised strip in the middle of the Boulevard where you can join the other tourists in getting your photo. If you wish to see a show, be prepared to part with 99 euros for the 11pm sitting, dinner and an earlier session will set you back around 180 euros. To access the Moulin Rouge directly, the metro stop Blanche (line 2) will land you in the middle of Boulevard De Clichy, in the heart of the action.

Moulin Rouge

Metro station and Moulin Rouge

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A good detour back up to Rue Lepic is via the Cimetiere de Montmartre (cemetery), the resting place of numerous notable Parisians such as Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola, and composers Jacques Offenbach and Hector Berlioz.

TOP TIP – Reaching Sacre Coeur: 

On foot: Montmartre is full of steep, narrow streets that invariably lead to the majestic Sacre Coeur, with its commanding views over the city. But reaching it can be a little daunting! If you want a good cardiac workout, tackle any one of the staircases that will invariably lead you to the Basilica. But for a more pleasurable and less strenuous option, take the gradual incline along Rue Lepic up to Place J-B Clement, then follow the narrow touristy streets to Sacre Coeur. You’ll hardly break a sweat! This route will also take you past the rustic-looking historic Moulin Radet, an old mill where you can stop at the adjoining cafe for a meal or a drink.

Sacre Coeur

Moulin Radet

 

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By transport:

• If you’d prefer to save your legs for other city walking, you can catch the funicular railway from the base of the hill that takes you one staircase shy of the top for the cost of one metro ticket.
• There is also Montmartrobus bus, which will take you up Rue Lepic to the Basilica. Look out for the stops marked with blue signs.
• An alternative option that is especially kid-friendly, is to catch the Promotrain that departs from Place Blanche and takes you on a 40 minute commentated ride that finishes at the Basilica (6 euros adults/3.50 kids).

For me, Montmartre is memorable for another reason: it was here I had my first nutella crepe on my original visit to Paris in 2001! You can now obtain this local “speciality” at many tourist locations throughout the city, but it is here I first sampled this tasty delight. There are no shortage of vendors to choose from. There is also plenty of more gourmet produce on offer as well!

Local artists, Place du Tertre

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In addition, there are a number of small museums and galleries in the area – the Lonely Planet Paris has a good summary of these, including opening hours and prices. There are also plenty of artists ready and willing to create your caricature around the (ultra-touristy) Place du Tertre, along with their many (usually painted) depictions of Paris landmarks you can buy as a memento of your trip.

Once you reach Sacre Coeur, you can visit the interior, climb the dome, and see the crypt; or simply admire the exterior and the views. Since it was raining and overcast, I decided to save my interior visit for a day that is more conducive to getting good views from the dome – where you can reputedly see up to 30km on a clear day.

Sacre Coeur

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Despite the inclement weather, the city views were still impressive. You can make out multiple famous sights, including the Centre Pompidou and the Eiffel Tower (if you discover the right angle to look!). You can then descend via the green lawns and steps that take you down to Square Louise Michel, where more shops and cafes await to tempt you.

TOP TIP – Safety: Make sure you have your wits about you at the base of the hill from Sacre Coeur, amongst the buskers and performers the area is also apparently a hotspot for pickpockets.

And so completed an enjoyable few hours’ of wandering. There is a lot more to this district that is also worth exploring, so I intend to continue my discoveries on another day.